See CN March/April '08 page 72 for the materials and retail source for featured jacket.

Adapted sleeve pattern (click here to download) is also on CN's March/April '08 Pattern Pull-out and CN's Sept/Oct '04 Pattern Pull-out.

Instructions
"Crop Jacket" is a great basic pattern with many possibilities. This interpretation of the jacket required the addition of a facing and lining, which are easily added.

1. Add 1 1/4" hem allowances to jacket front, jacket back, and adapt sleeve pattern pieces. Add 1/2" seam allowance to neckline on jacket back; add 1/2" seam allowance to neckline and front opening edge on jacket front. Refer to illustrations for guidance in adding hem and seam allowances, paying particular attention to shaping hem allowance on sleeve. Cut jacket back, fronts, and sleeves from jacket fabric, transferring all markings.

2. Establish lines on the jacket front and jacket back patterns to create lining and facing patterns. Be sure the front and back facings are the same width at the shoulder seam. Note: To join the lining and facing 1/2" seam allowances are needed; and hem allowances need to be removed. Refer to the illustrations to aid in understanding and creating these patterns. If desired, cut the jacket pattern apart along the facing/lining line and cut away the hem allowance at this time. Trace the separated pieces, adding the 1/2" seam allowances.

Cut out sleeve pattern with the 1 1/4" hem allowance turned up to provide the correct shaping for hem allowance. Note how the hem allowance is shaped.

3. Cut facing pattern pieces from jacket fabric; cut lining pattern pieces from lining fabric. Cut fusible interfacing for facings. Fuse interfacing to facings.

4. Sew shoulder seams and side seams in jacket. Press open.

5. Prepare, hem, and set in sleeves. Note: Refer to pattern for sleeve preparation and insertion into jacket.

6. Sew shoulder seams in facings. Press seams open.

7. Sew shoulder seams and side seams in jacket lining. Press seams open. Prepare sleeve lining and set into the jacket lining. Taper the seam in the underarm area to 1/4" when setting sleeve into the jacket lining. This allows the lining to "sit" properly inside the jacket.

8. Stitch facing to the jacket. Trim and grade the seam, clipping where needed. Press seam toward the facing. Understitch and press facing to inside of jacket.

9. Turn up, press, and hem jacket and facing. Note: Open out facing to hem it and then turn it back to inside of jacket.

10. Stitch lining to the facing, right sides together. Ease and clip where necessary due to stitching a concave curve to a convex curve. Stop the stitching in this seam 2-3" above the bottom edge of lining on both sides. Press seam toward the lining. Turn lining to the inside of jacket.

11. Turn bottom raw edge of lining under 1/2" and slipstitch to the top of jacket hem, catching only the hem allowance. Fold lower edge of lining over the hem allowance creating a pleat or "jump." Slipstitch front edges of lining to the facing where it has yet to be attached. Finish the sleeves by the same method, again creating a "jump."

     

    • CLICK HERE for a printer-friendly pdf of the sleeve adaptation instructions.

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