Pre-construction Embellishments
Pleating sleeves: Press and starch sleeves and angel wing ruffles. Thread first 4 rows of pleater needles, including 1/2 rows. (There should be 7 pleating threads). Pleat sleeve with first pleating thread 1” above raw edge of lower edge of sleeve. Leave pleating threads long enough to allow sleeve to lie flat.

Remove pleating threads from 1” on either side of sleeve on sizes 1-3, and 1 1/2” on sizes 4-6. Knot pleating threads in pairs.

Pinstitching lace: With #70 needle and 60-80wt. thread, straight stitch through lace header, attaching lace to sleeve. Position lace so that header is 1/4” above raw edge of sleeve. Press 1/4” of raw edge of sleeve up away from lace.

*Select pinstitch (on Brother Pacesetter 8500 utility menu page 4, row 3), setting width at 2.5 and length 2.5.

With 100 wing needle and 60-80wt. ivory thread, sew pinstitch to join lace to sleeve. Cut away excess fabric. Position sleeve so that single right swing of needle reaches into lace and hemstitching holes are in batiste sleeve.

With water soluble marker, draw a line parallel to and 3/8” above pinstitch.

Repeat from * on angel wing ruffle.

Hoop embroidered flowerettes: Turn off machine, attach embroidery unit and set up for embroidery. Change to #70 needle.

Note: Since sleeve design is very close to the edge of fabric, it is impossible to hoop the piece in the normal fashion. Instead, hoop lightweight stabilizer, such as Tear Easy(Registered Trademark) or Solvy (Registered Trademark) and spray with fabric adhesive such as KK2000. Finger press sleeve edge onto stabilizer.

With 50wt. DMC thread, embroidery design file sleeve.pes on blue line at sleeve center. In same manner, embroider angel wing ruffle with design file anglwing.pes. Take care to position lower flowerette on blue line.

Feather stitch: Select feather stitch (on Brother Pacesetter 8500 utility menu, page 3, row 3). Adjust width and length as desired. On ivory sleeve, with darker blue thread, stitch along blue line on either side of flowerettes.

On blue angel wing ruffle, work feather stitch in ivory thread, stitching on blue line in same manner. Turn off machine. Remove embroidery unit and set up for regular sewing. Leave #70 needle in place.

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